Dirt Bike FAQ

With a bike like the CRF150F you need to use the clutch to get the front end off the ground. On a MX bike you can just use throttle, but the 150F doesn't hit hard like an MX bike. Start by just practicing getting the front wheel up, but don't worry about keeping it there. Just practice on how much throttle you need when you dump the clutch without flipping over backwards. Try going rather slow in 2nd gear, 1st will wind out too quickly, as you're going along just pull in the clutch, give some gas and dump the clutch. Take it easy at first and keep your foot over the rear brake just in case the front gets too high. Once you master getting the front end up just work on your balance. Try to keep the bike in the lower RPM range, if the rpm's get too high the front will drop as you run out of steam.

If you don't have the horsepower to lift the front end by just opening the throttle in 1st gear while rolling slowly, you may not be able to do it reliably.

Try moving back on the seat as much as possible and be ready to back off the throttle or hit the rear brake in case you overdo it.

Turn them on? Just turn them on.

Are you sure your not messing with the clutch? A 98 yz has disc brakes??

As far as leaning, turning, braking, throttle control, clutch control, and shifting gears, it will definitely help.

Have you thought about a dual purpose bike? You could learn off road, then take it on road when you're ready.

Year make and model would be helpful.
There were a couple of motocross bikes with no idle adjustment screw.
Now-a-days, they all should be able to idle on their own.

I love seeing some of the answers people come up with.
You did not say 250F so there are no valves to adjust, If you forgot to say F then there are valves that require adjusting, but since its a Yam it would have to have a tremendous amount of time on it to see valves out of adjustment.

Two strokes require top end replacement at regular time intervals, not 4 years unless you only ride it twice a year. If you do not ride it hard you should replace the top end as outlined in the manual, You can stretch it out a bit longer.

Lube and adjust the chain every ride it may not need the adjustment but it will need the lube, Clean the air filter after every ride, and use filter oil.

Since fork seals were mentioned 90% of the time a fork seal leaks it has a small piece of grit stuck in it .you can easily clean the seal by using a piece of film and sliding it up in to the seal, do not do this if its not leaking. Seal savers help if you fold them back and clean them out also. Always put your bike on a stand with the weight off the suspension, never leave it sinched down.

Check Tires, Loose bolts, depending on your ability clutches may at some point need replacing. Tires need changing, your terrain has a big part in that. Spark plug etc.
Good Luck hope this helped

Just keep it washed, look it over, and maintain it and it will last for a very long time.

There are a variety of good options for you. I would recommend a 4-stroke for trail riding for the wide powerband, the low end torque allows them to just keep on chugging. Though there are some perfectly capable 2-strokes out there for trails.
For trail riding, I would recommend against a moto-x or "racing" style bike. The gears are too close and the lowest ones are often too high for real technical trail stuff.
Some of the ones I am familiar with (through ownership) are the
WR-250 and the XR-250.
I moved up to the XR-250 from an XR-200 and it is a WORLD of difference. It surprised me greatly, so make sure you start carefully moving up from an 80. The engine is vastly superior, and it can do 3rd gear wheelies without popping the clutch :P. It's among the best off road machines I've ever ridden, the powerband is perfect. It also has disk brakes on both tires (unlike the 200), which you definitely want.

The racing derived bikes, like the WR (based off the YZ), is basically a racing bike with different gearing and a few trail oriented changes. Usually they keep the same high-output high-compression racing motors, which can be finicky. Some of them even recommend a rebuild after every racing season (or more frequent!), though trail riding doesn't put as much strain on it. The XR has an air cooled engine, which I've noticed can get VERY HOT in the summer when your not able to move very fast for a while. The racing derived bikes tend to be liquid cooled, but are a tad more high-strung. I've had issues with both bikes with hot starting, especially after being dropped (the XR not as bad, but sometimes it can be stubborn). If you get a bike that uses a decompress to help start (WR does, XR has one but doesn't need it), it helps if you can get one with an auto-decompress exhaust cam (greatly eases starting), or electric start (though I personally won't ride a bike that ONLY has an electric start). The WR I believe has come with a decompress standard for quite some time now (and I think electric start now too), but I had to retrofit my older model with the cam. 2-strokes do tend to start easier, I will concede that to them ;).

Things you want in a trail bike:
tons of low-end torque
disc brakes, front and back
lower, wide ratio, trail gearing
comfortable (enough) seat
probably more I'm forgetting…

almost all bike manufacturer's make a good trail bike around that displacement class. Hit up the bike forums and reviews and see what people have to say about the bikes your looking at.

best of luck on your decision and have a blast!

edit: forgot to mention, if you like the Honda CRF250, check out the CRF250X model, it is the Honda equivalent to the WR, with the different gearing, etc. from the full out racing bike.

I recommend a Yamaha YZ 80. It was the first bike I bought. I was 12 years old, at the time, and about your height. I loved that bike and rode it into the ground…it was still kickin' ass, without a clutch, by the time I mothballed it 10 years later. Whatever make you choose, I would still recommend starting with an 80 cc model. I competed in motor-cross for several years and eventually became successful on 125's….but only after I learned the skills on an 80. I now own and race a 1990 H-D big twin evo…she is a custom built, NOS equipped, 1340 cc drag bike from hell! …….but I still love doing dough nuts and jumping ditches on a beat up old YZ 80.

You never forget your first.
Ride safe…..and hard.

On the majority of mototrbikes you only need to use the clutch when you pull away or wanna stop. all dirt bikes especially have a dog engagement gearbox which means there are no synchros and are designed to change gear without the use of a clutch, the only other reason for having a clutch on a dirt bike is for stunts so you can lift the revs in a higher gear than 1st pop the clutch and wheelie or dip the clutch on the brow of a hill then wack the throttle back while letting the clutch out to spin the back tire so it beds into the mud givin much better traction as you pass over the hill etc so if you just riding normally you dont need to use the clutch once your moving