To shift the gears on a motorcycle there is something important you should learn from the service manual and that is just exactly how many gears your bike has. Most bikes have either 4 or 5 gears. Modern Sports Bikes have 6 gears.

First put the bike in neutral, it is half way in between 1st and 2nd gear. Squeeze the clutch ( found on left handle bar) before trying to shift. You will know you are in neutral if a green light is showing on your gauges or if the bike rolls freely with the clutch out. Once in neutral you can start the bike, but keep the clutch in. According to your bikes shift pattern (Standard or GP Shift) you then shift into 1st gear by pushing the shift pedal up or down. Slowly let out the clutch while simultaneously increasing your RPM's with the throttle. The bike should start moving forward and as it does, release the clutch completely, but stay on the throttle. Once the bike is moving you can roll on the throttle to increase speed. As your RPM's increase you will need to shift into a higher gear; to do this you will need to squeeze the clutch in again. Then according to your bikes shift pattern, go to the next highest gear. Now release the clutch and roll on the throttle. To down shift you squeeze the clutch and shift to the next lowest gear, release the clutch. Be sure to match your RPM's to the wheel speed on a downshift or your rear tire can lock up resulting in a high-side.

There are currently two shift patterns on modern motorcycles, standard and gp. Standard shift is well…standard, it will be found on most motorcyles. GP shift refers to the shift pattern used by professional racers. GP shift is reversed so that a rider does not have his foot under the shift pedal when needing to up-shift in a corner, it also makes for faster up-shifts. GP shift is primarily found on sports bikes and bikes intended for use on the track, but most sport bikes come with standard shift from the factory.

Shift patterns are set up as follows…

- Standard Shift (starting from neutral):

First gear is down 1

Neutral is up one and it is indicated by a green light on your bikes gauges. If you are not sure you are in Neutral ~ it is the only time when your bike will freely roll backwards when the clutch is not engaged.

Gears 2 ~ 4/5/6 are all up.

- GP or Reverse Shift (starting from neutral):

First gear is up 1

Neutral is down 1 and will likewise be indicated by a green light on your gauges.

Gear 2-6 are all down

Shifting gears on a motorcycle may seem awkward at first, but try it a few times in your garage or drive way with the bike off. Roll on the the throttle and practice using the clutch to shift up and down. If while riding you start going to fast or you feel as if you are not in control, pull in the clutch to disengage the engine from moving the rear wheel and apply brakes accordingly. Within a short time shifting through the gears will be second nature.

Yes.

If you try to take off in 3rd gear you're going to stall. Do it too many times and depending on your bike you're going to wear out the clutch faster/prematurely.

And check http://www.sportrider.com under the riding techniques section theres a article on "blipping" the throttle on downshifts.

Blipping the throttle on downshifts is just matching the RPM of the engine when downshifting with the clutch in upon release. It makes it smoother.

Folks – the reason the asker is looking to do this mod is because AMA now has a class for the 105cc modded 80's and 85's.

To be competitive in this class, and since no manufacturer is currently offering a 105cc model, this is the only option.

Standard cylinder on this enigne in nikasil. No sleeve.

To do a big bore kit you will either need to have a liner installed in the cylinder (not the most reliable option usually), or purchase a complete kit which includes a bored and re-nikasiled (or other plating) cylinder.

Because of the change in cylinder volume, standard porting will NOT work. The porting needs to be matched to the new engine displacement.

You can purchase a complete setup like this from shops like Lukes http://www.lukesracing.com/luksr/cr85bigbore105p04.htm

Another option which will actually give much better overall power is an increase and bore and stroke to the new 105cc AMA limit. It's more expensive, but will give at least 20% more torque and midrange power than just a bigger piston.

Companies like Max Power offer these kits http://www.maxpower-engines.com/big-bore-kits/cr105.htm

He'll have to also remember that putting this much more power thru the engine can result in decreased lifespan of transmission and clutch components. Just something to keep in mind!

Enough to smoothly take off. If it starts to bog/stall you can either grab the clutch a little or gas it. you should note where the clutch grabs and try to match the rev with that every time

I have a 2 stroke and if i stall when riding I always pop the clutch to get it going again. If it dosen't start before i lose momentum, I only have to kick it once.

I would go with a quad. You are less likely to bail on a quad then on a dirt bike. Depending on your experience.But it will hurt alot more when you do bail on a quad. I just think there funner and better looking. Im going to be purchasing a 2007 Yamaha Wolverine. Have fun with your choice!!

Bicycles don't have clutches… so I'm guessing you should ask this in motorcycles…

Ok i prefer yamaha thats all i ride im 13 and 5’5 and i have a yz80 that rips about 75 mph so i say a yz80 are yz85 my buddy has a honda and his is crap thats why there cheap also kawisaki is good yz80 yz85 kx80 are my opinions

Is it a 2 stroke or 4 stroke.
generally 2 strokes aren't supposed to idle so they won't foul sparkplugs.

I cant be sure with your info but 2 things come to mind. 1 is the clutch cable adjusted proper. second did you oil the clutches good before you assembled it. i would adjust the cable so that you have a small amount of play in the cable and start it to see what happens. the new friction plates may need to soak up more oil.