Look on websites like www.denniskirk.com in the closeout section. I once found boots for 27 dollars. Normally they will cost you about 150 dollars. A chest protector will normally cost about 80-120 dollars.
This is only a fraction of the cost it would take to repair broken ankles. Or the funeral cost from having a stick go through your chest. These sorts of accidents happen very quickly!
Even with full gear, you can still get hurt, but the chances are FAR lower.
Last week, I was racing, and wearing full gear: chest protector, helmet, goggles, good motocross boots, gloves, racing pants, and jersey. I ended up with a very bad concussion, and broken collarbone. If I had been wearing one more piece of equipment (a "neck roll") I wouldn't have broken my collar bone.
If there are races around your area. Take a walk through the pit section. Many times, racers will be selling their used gear for very cheap prices!
If you are answering this question could you put the volume in litres,
Becka xxx
Has anyone explained WHY you were told that about your new Chinese bike?
You can look around and see only Rare mention of "Loctiting Everything" on the Jap Dirtbikes.
It's Not because the Chinese Vibrate more than the Japs.
Loctite does NOT keep Bolts/Nuts Tight.
It merely keeps them from falling off when they come loose,,,and any parts they're holding coming adrift.
Fastener Tension is what keeps things tight.
Pretty Much the same as a "Spring Tension" Effect.
When you Torque a Fastener to correct specs,,,
the shank STRETCHES and holds the tension in a spring-like effect.
Too Loose,,,and ya dont have enough tension to hold the load.
Too TIGHT and you've exceeded the Yield Strength of the Fastener,,,,you've "sprung the spring",,,Over Stretched it.
Old Saying,,"Over Torqued Bolt is a Half Broken Bolt"
There's all sorts of GRADES of fasteners.
Higher Grades have both Higher Yield Strength AND typically a "high modulus of elasticity"—they are SPRINGIER.
LOW Grade Bolts are Soft,Weak,Spongy,and with Low Yield strength.
When you Torque them to "Correct Specs",,,they Stretch too.
But when You LOAD them,,,that exceeds their elasticity.
The Result is that the fastener PERMANENTLY Stretches.
A Bolt becomes actually LONGER.
A "Longer Bolt" gives exact same effect as a LOOSE BOLT which is not tightened down all the way.
Dynamic Loading/Movement,etc will eventually LENGTHEN,,,Not "loosen",,the fastener to the point where it Becomes Loose.
Then Vibrations will cause nuts to back off,fall off,,screws & bolts to vibrate out of their hole and so on.
Loctite can be BAD NEWS on Low Grade hardware.
Exagerated example:
Say you have a Bolt that has a 1" Clamped Length when installed and torqued.
And it Stretches in service to 1 1/8".(Gross exageration)
But OBVIOUSLY it's then Wobbling Loose,,right?
It's no longer even bottomed out on the parts,,not even "touching".
So what does that Normally Require?
RE-Tightening,obviously.
(In Reality,,it NEEDS a Better Grade Bolt)
So You have a Low Grade Bolt,,,loosened from Over Stretching,,,,
and a SEMI-SEIZED Thread from Loctite.
The LOCTITE itself introduces a False Torque during Re-Torque operation.
It RAISES the Break-Out Torque just to MOVE it.
That gets Added to the Total Torque.
So you either :
a)See 15ft Lbs on your Torque Wrench,,,while Clamping Force is only equivalent of 10FT lbs.
Because 5ft lbs goes Just to TURN the Fastener
or
b)You Torque the Threads and Shank of the fastener sytem without applying ANY clamping force
or
c)You try to REMOVE the fastener which has been Over stretched beyond it's yield strength,,,and the Torque demand of the Loctite allows you the Break the Fastener becomes it comes loose.
Now,,,did you see me say ANYWHERE that "Locktite is BAD??"
Or,,,"DO NOT USE Locktite"??
No,,it's a fine product and does an incredibly dependable job in it's intended & appropriate applications.
People bet their Lives on it,,,and the safety/security of Zillion Dollar Equipment.
But you have to Focus on the Key Words>>"Intended & Appropriate Applications"
There's LOTS more to the matter than knowing what each Color of Loctite Does.
The explanation of THAT simple aspect is written right on the product's instructions.
………………………………………………………………….
The Best,,,and generally the ONLY advantage that Loctite can offer any unit assembled with Low Grade Hardware is to prevent a part from falling off.
It will Retain a Loose Bolt or Nut.
That SOUNDS like,,,"Well thats what it's supposed to do"
And that's correct.
But ,,THEN What?
What Loctite DOES NOT DO is prevent parts from coming loose due to Fastener Stretch/Yield.
Nothing about Loctite improves the metallurgy of the fasteners involved.
It ONLY increases Torque Requirement to prevent vibrations from spinning a nut off,etc.
Consider what happens NEXT,,,when you get tired of your exhaust flopping around,,,Handlebars slipping,,,footpegs wobbling around,,etc.
And all your "safely Loctited" nuts/bolts are Still Present on the Now Loose hardware.
Tighten them Up?
Good Luck.
It was "half Broken" when originally installed,,
Yielded it's clamp length till it got LOOSE,,,
Now You wanna Torque it AGAIN,,,,but with the addition of the Loctite Breakout Torque Requirement?
I'll say it again,,,NOTHING Wrong with Using Locktite.
At least it "FEELS GOOD" that you've done SOMETHING.
But whoever told you to use Loctite SPEFICALLY BECAUSE
You're bike is CHINESE does NOT Understand the phenomenon of those machines having Nuts & Bolts which continually come loose and fall off.
The "Falling Off" aint the Problem.
That's only the RESULT of the Problem,,which is FAILED Fasteners.
Preventing the things from Falling Off is Not a Bad Thing,,
But it ONLY is addressing a SYMPTOM of a more serious and potentially dangerous problem.
Loctite use has the distinct potential to cause Further Probs when you try to Tighten stuff.
And most likely will help the fasteners reach Failure sooner.
Only REAL FIX is to REPLACE the Fasteners with Hi Grade Hardware.
Nuts,Bolts,AND flat washers & lockwashers as well.
Spongy ,Soft-surfaced washers don't help matters.
I realize that Replacement is Both tedious And an expense.
But it's a Genuine Fix,,,not just Feel-Better-About-It Patch.
A Rational Approach would be to initially replace Critical App/Safety Related hardware,,,such as Brake Mounting stuff,,Handlebar Clamp bolts,etc.
WAY more of a nuisance to use than Loctite,,,but a Much Better alternative is to use a couple wraps of Teflon Tape.
It forms a Pseudo-"Nyloc Nut" by introducing enough Thread Interference to impede vibration spin-off.
Teflon Tape also has the xtra benefit which Loctite Doesn't of prevent Thread Galling,,,,and Torque Binding between the threads.
Especially on Low Quality Tapped Blind Holes where you DONT wanna break a bolt off in the hole.
When Threads engage each other and begin to take a load,,,
The FRICTION between the 2 sets of Threads begin to "bite into each other".
On Soft,Mis Formed,or otherwise Low Quality Fasteners,,,any Further Torque simply Twists the fasteners shank.
That Creates a False Torque because Thread Bind Stops the advance of correct Stretch.
The Nut quits jacking up the bolt Tighter and Stretching it to correct tension,,,,Because the Threads Freeze.
So any further Torque just TWIST the Shank,,,NOT the Thread.
A Few Heat Cycles or Load Cycles Relaxes the Thread Friction>>>result is a Loose Bolt.
Teflon Tape as a thread Locking Agent prevents Thread Binding to a high degree,,,and ensures far more accurate actual Torque.
It's a Tedious Nuisance to use it,,,,even with a BUNCH of practice.
And hardware never gets "handy" and finger-spinnable when disassembling.
Anyway…..
Nothing "Wrong" with Loctite.
But it DOES warrant a Bit more thought & consideration of the task at hand.
One should be fully aware of what they're dealing with,,what they're trying to accomplish,,,and what the outcome of any effort will be.
As well as being aware of alternatives & their Pros & Cons.
The Observation of Chinese Machines "needing Loctite" is NOT as obvious as it seems.
The Problem is Low Grade Fasteners.
Which need occasional tightening.
In light of that condition & its requirement,,,Loctite and it's properties may not be the ideal choice.
Doing Something is not necessarily Always better than doing nothing.
Sometimes there can be ,,"Worse than doing nothing".
Like adding torque demands to already weak fasteners,,,especially when they're expected to need frequent tightening.
…………………………………………
****Been there,, Done that,,,exact same situation.
Anybody who worked on JAP bikes in early '60's recalls the Japanese Standard Torque Specs.
"Tighten it till it gets loose again,,then back off half a turn"
6mm bolts got broken off without even realizing they were getting tight,,,especially if they were old.
8mm bolts could be broken off at will.
Or,,the threads pulled outa the nut.
American 1/4"(6mm equiv) Grade 5 from Cars,Harleys,or Brit Bikes took a Lot of effort to strip or break.
Ya could stretch them till they were Distinctly narrow in the middle.
A Grade 8 was extremely difficult to break.
A Grade 8 3/8" SAE bolt(8mm equiv) would Damage TOOLS before it would break.
Finally the Japs upgraded their hardware.
The Chinese will too eventually.
I have a hunch they're at LEAST as serious about developing their Bike Industry as the Japs were in 1960.
The parallel of each country's introduction to American mkt is remarkable.
The Japs had just about every aspect of their machines Nailed.
Except material quality was marginal in many aspects.
The Chinese,,in my opinion,,are very much the same right now.
Good designs,lots of features,great prices,styling,everything.
But they're using cheesey quality materials in areas that blight the whole bike's overall value and appeal.
In 60's,,,it took a LONG time for People to FINALLY say,,"The Japs Build GOOD bikes".
I think the Chinese CAN turn that corner Real Quick with some minimum & low cost Upgrades.
We'll likely just wake up one day and see "World Class" Chinese Bikes with quality equal to anyone's.
If they dont shoot theirself in the foot first,,from crap like skimping $20 per bike on nuts & bolts.
That's Critical,,but it's also the kind of nuisance which makes potential Dealers reluctant to wanna fooll with them.
And for the Chinese to ultimately get solid established,,they GOTTA build better Dealer /Parts/Service network than they have so far.
Anyway,,enough babbling outa me.
Good Luck with it
Better than the inane answer offering to rip your head off, eh?
130 Oakdale Rd. Toronto, ON, M3N 1V9
Tel: (416) 749-2324
Toll Free: 1-866-379-7779
Email: info@daymak.com
Hours of operations: Monday-Friday: 10:00am – 7:00 pm; Saturday: 10:00am – 6:00 pm
They sell dirt bikes, quads, and more off road fun. They will know where there are tracks for you to play on.
Have fun!!!!
possibly 50CC or more
i live in Hulme which is in Manchester in the UK
is there anywhere in manchester thats Local to me where
i can go and buy a Mini Moto
Thanx
this dirt bike is a 4 stroke
its easy to kick its just when i do nothing happens.
I'm going to make a guess and assume it's a Chinese Clone of a little Honda engine.
Normally,,all those type motors are very easy to start if the engine is in Good Condition,,,or even fair condition.
———————————————————————–
Some things that can make them hard to start.
*Low Compression.
That can be caused by several things.
You Really need to have the compression checked with a gauge to determine if it's within proper range.
Should be about 120 psi minimum.
If it's Less than that,nothing will really help much.
"Low Compression" is usually thought to mean "burned-up / wore out Engine",,,,and that's often true.
But not Necessarily.
Valve Clearance Adjustment,,and Timing Chain condition will affect it also and make the compression a bit lower.
>>>Adjust the Valves to .003"
That's Looser than recommended setting of .002".
>>>Make sure the cam chain is adjusted right.
Sometimes the adjuster "sticks" and doesnt really work right.
Also need to check the chain for wear.
Both things are easy to do.
CARBURETOR:
These things are so small even the Tiniest amount of gum/varnish/deposits will make them behave badly.
Easiest thing to do is try some Cleaner added to the Fuel tank.
Use FUEL INJECTION cleaner,,,not "carb cleaner"—it works much better.
Chevron Techron ,,or Seafoam are 2 good ones.
Don't Overdose it thinking that "more is Better".
You may ultimately have to remove the carb and take it apart to clean it.
The Intake Manifold "never" gets loose on original,genuine Hondas.
On all the Clones,,,,it's a crapshoot.
If they Do get loose the Gaskets will leak air,,and cause hard start,bad running.
Or,,if Carb has ever been removed ,,,it's tuff to get them to re-seal without using new gaskets.
Ignition System/Spark Plugs:
Most of the late model versions all have electronic ignitions.
They usually work OK,,,and are Usually NOT adjustable.
When they FAIL,,,almost always it fails like a Light Bulb.
They just Quit Working at all,,,,no mysterious misfires,,no intermittent problems that come & go.
So IF it sparks,,and eventually Runs,,,
there's 99% Odds the CDI Ignition is working OK.
Spark Plugs.
Try an NGK Iridium Plug.
DO NOT expect it to "FIX" anything,,or even Cover-Up any sort of problems elsewhere.
Make sure everything Else is in good order First.
They are NOT Magic Plugs,,,but they DO improve starting because they can fire under a much wider range of conditions,,including Weak Ignition system,,,or partially flooded,,,very cold temps,,,etc,etc
They're expensive ,$8~10.
It Wont FIX anything,,but they can definitely help
Get a Service Manual if you can.
If You cannot find one,,,early Honda 50 & 70 Manual is Close enough to give You general basics
…………………………………………………………..
You will have to register,,but You can get Free Manuals here
http://www.repairmanualclub.com/
These will help.
Remeber,,these are NOT Identical to Yours,,not even the same engines,,70's and 90's are Different.
But they can give you an idea how the things are laid out,,,and valve adjustment,timing chain stuff is basically the same.
Carb Clean/Rebuild PROCEDURE is sorta generic,,,things like that.
Consider them only HINT,CLUE,or GUIDE,,,,and NOT actual,accurate service manuals for Your bike
Honda S90-CL90-C90-CD90-CT90 Shop Manual
Honda SL70, XL70K1 Factory Shop Manual, English
Good Luck with it
it wont start when the choke is off so i turn it on and it starts and after a while when the engine heats up i turn it off and it cuts out…..
i have to keep the choke on all hte time and it goes but very slowly!!
Strip the carb bowl off, remove the float assembly
where centre bolt attached bowl, inside that tube is the jet and emulsion tube
Carefully unscrew this jet and clean with compressed air or if your lucky your breath ??
Muck in the carb…. but they are not the best quality
I have bought several none runners off ebay and everyone its been a quick fix …. dirty carb
Try and put a small inline filter within the line …. I modified them with a longer hose to adapt them and had no problem
If the carbs mullered….. you can buy them off ebay for £11 + delivery
Oh….. have you checked the reed valve after the carb… ? sometimes these break or dont seal correctly ??
This might be the fault you have…. due to choke ??
