Dirt Bike FAQ

I get alot of parts from www.denniskirk.com the prices are good but depending on the bike selection could be sparse. If they don't have it check ebay.

You might be able to find someone to give it to you ,if you have something you have to give away - say a toaster, someone will come pick it up and then you can put out the word about what you are looking for ,,,,

http://www.freecycle.org/display.php?region=Canada

they have groups in different cities in Canada - around the world- I read about on Yahoo!

A bike doesn't need to have a 100% Chromo frame and saying it'll break because of this isn't true. When a bike is said to have a 4130 Chromo main frame they are referring to the two main (long) tubes - the top tube & down tube and the seat tube (which is the one the saddle & post are clamped into). You'll normally find the other tubes will be made from high tensile steel and this being the case it should be plenty strong enough as long as the welding is up to the job.

You'll find at this price that the components will be the bits you'll have issues with. Cheaper 3 piece cranks tend to be amongst the first parts to go. You'll often find the splines (the small grooves that hold the crank arm in place on the bottom bracket axle) will strip meaning you'll have to replace them pretty quickly. And no, before anyone pipes up - it won't be covered by warranty if you've been using the bike for jumping / park riding. Even though the bike is designed for this, it'll be excluded from the warranty cover.

Another thing you may need to think about changing pretty quickly would be the wheels. Off the peg wheels tend to be pretty poorly built. Look for something with steel rims (heavier but stronger and better braking), 48 spoke and with a serviceable hub. No point going for cartridge bearings when the wheels are going to take a kicking. And they will. especially if you're learning to jump!

Take a look at the Specialized Fuse Two & Three. Both have good frames and a good level of equipment. The Fuse Three at $400 has a full Chromo frame and slightly lighter wheels. Otherwise have a look for the GT Bump at around $300. All good places to start.

Whatever you get, don't expect it to be unbreakable. Even the really expensive ones get busted, especially if you're just getting started. Remember to save some money for pads & a helmet. And have fun!

I like, in order:

KTM has the best suspension, lightest weight, most options and the most power. It is the most expensive and parts can be hard to get. The suspension is great but fussy to adjust.

The Yamaha is great for both racing and trail riding. YZF is better for racing and the WR for trails.

The Suzuki and Kawasaki are about the same and are good for both and they have very tough motors.

The Honda has great suspension and is easy to ride fast but the motors wont last the longest.

BTW, Cycle News sucks and I wouldn't put much trust in what they say. They mostly do street bikes anyway.

It all depends on the bike!..some xt600 are kick only,i have fitted elerctric starts to them in the past.but only because some xt600 were electric starts and the parts swap over[with a bit of work though]…there isnt a universal kit,it would be impossable to make one…your quids in if you know af a similar bike to your own with a electric start…not really a diy job mind…have a look at my stuff
www.thedesertcamel.co.uk

Before you can paint a raw plastic part you must first wash it with alcohol, then take a gray Scotchbrite pad and wet it with alcohol while you sand the part with it. next wipe it down with alcohol again and then spray it with a plastic parts adhesion promoter (available in a spray can at any parts store) and then after that any paint should work. when painting plastic or rubber parts, proper preperation is the only way to make paint stick.

The first thing I'd try is to do a google search for the type of bike you're talking about. There's got to be someone out there that carries what you're looking for. If that doesn't help any then I'd agree with the suggestion of ebay.

www.dirtytires.com/forums

Before you start changing parts, figure out what's wrong.
Remove the carb, leave the cable attached and the top on.
Stick your finger in and lift the slide.
If it returns, the slide and carb are OK.
If not clean them.
Put the carb back on the bike.
Remove the throttle cable from the throttle (hand grip).
Pull the inner cable.
Does it return?
If yes, then good.
If no, might need a new cable, it's kinked, or routed wrong.
While the cable is still off, spin the throttle (whip it).
It should spin freely.
If not, could be dirty handle bars or throttle pipe (hand grip), damaged throttle pipe - replace it, bent handle bars.
The throttle housing might be dirty or damaged.
Clean it, put it together with the throttle (leave the cable off), and spin it.
Do not lube the handle bars or throttle (will attract dirt).
Leave both completely dry.

Im a dealer email me at that website.

i will get you a great price

www.sunlparts.net

gregg

Change the oil and use a motorcycle 10w-40 and just continue to use that brand after all you shouldn't mix brands or grades