Dirt Bike FAQ

These are very respectable wheels and I mean all their products and yes you can swap out.

DO NOT get a Mountain bike if you wish to do a lot of jumping. A BMX 20" wheel bike is better. Of course, you can jump a Mtn Bike (MB) but you are risking quite a bit of damage. The larger wheels of a MB are more at risk for damage. Plus the gear system will give your problems. Stuff like "chain slap" or just the chain coming off from the impact of landing.Worse damaging derailleurs and such during any crashes.
Unless your are a very experienced rider Don't plan on using a MB for a "jump bike", you'll spend more $$$ fixing it than what the bike costs.
I've seen this kind of thing happen before when I worked at a bike shop. Use a MB for cross county off road riding and get yourself a BMX 20" wheel bike, with lots of spokes, for jumping. It will be cheaper in the long run.

Plus as far as MB's go I like good steel frames, full Cromoly.
They're cheaper and steel is twice as strong as anything else in your price range. Plus a steel frame MB will usually always have better parts on it than a aluminum frame MB. And for jumping wide rims for either BMX or MB's.

Finally. Change your handle bar to a very strong heat treated one, even on a new bike. DON"T be cheap here! If that thing brakes on landing… OUCH! … and prepare for major dentist bills. Lots of jumping, change handlebar every year.

I think it'd still look pretty cool even with just white bars. I've seen several black bikes that had white bars/saddle/rims, sometimes the pedals or seat, too. If you change to white cable housing/hydro lines it ties it all together nicely. Slick looking bikes.

Good choice on the bars, too. If you want to look for white stuff, Funn and Fire Eye have quite a bit of it available and they make bomber components. Tioga, Sunline, and Bontrager have some available, too.

A bike doesn't need to have a 100% Chromo frame and saying it'll break because of this isn't true. When a bike is said to have a 4130 Chromo main frame they are referring to the two main (long) tubes – the top tube & down tube and the seat tube (which is the one the saddle & post are clamped into). You'll normally find the other tubes will be made from high tensile steel and this being the case it should be plenty strong enough as long as the welding is up to the job.

You'll find at this price that the components will be the bits you'll have issues with. Cheaper 3 piece cranks tend to be amongst the first parts to go. You'll often find the splines (the small grooves that hold the crank arm in place on the bottom bracket axle) will strip meaning you'll have to replace them pretty quickly. And no, before anyone pipes up – it won't be covered by warranty if you've been using the bike for jumping / park riding. Even though the bike is designed for this, it'll be excluded from the warranty cover.

Another thing you may need to think about changing pretty quickly would be the wheels. Off the peg wheels tend to be pretty poorly built. Look for something with steel rims (heavier but stronger and better braking), 48 spoke and with a serviceable hub. No point going for cartridge bearings when the wheels are going to take a kicking. And they will. especially if you're learning to jump!

Take a look at the Specialized Fuse Two & Three. Both have good frames and a good level of equipment. The Fuse Three at $400 has a full Chromo frame and slightly lighter wheels. Otherwise have a look for the GT Bump at around $300. All good places to start.

Whatever you get, don't expect it to be unbreakable. Even the really expensive ones get busted, especially if you're just getting started. Remember to save some money for pads & a helmet. And have fun!