Dirt Bike FAQ

Nope that's the price.. it's a chinese bike and they're extremely cheap…. my 200cc cost me just a bit less then 1k delivered, whereas, if i were to say of bought a yamaha, you could easily add another 6k onto that price.

the problem with them is not with the bikes, it's just finding a parts dealer…. if you can find a dealer that sells the parts, you've got no problems (i would help you, but there are like 3,000 diffrent types of chinese bikes… you gotta find a dealer that sells parts for your model, or hope like hell the part you ordered fits right.)

oh yeah, they also come partly disassembled (well most of 'em do anyways) with mine i had to put on the front wheel/fender, the handlebars, put the battery in and hook up the rear suspension… then just put gas in it, played with the idling screw to get it running right and off i went…

if you get the bike, when you get home and get it together if it won't start, or dies immediately don't fret… you need to adjust your idling screw…

careful on the new tires… they love to slip, especially on the street…. you're not on a crotch rocket so don't expect it to handle like one…. cuz if you try and pull off a tight turn right out of the box i garuntee your front wheel is going the opposite dirrection of your back wheel while you go flying off lol… i should know… it happened to me. no one warned ME about new tires.

stick to straight lines as much as possible til your tires get worn in a bit…. also take it easy on the new motor…. i know it's gonna be hard but don't go flooring it, popping wheelies or jumping it til ti's broken in a bit…

TOP SPEED:::: 40-55mph (desrestricted)

Model:
PY90

Engine Type :
4-Strokes, Air Cooled – 4 Speeds Semi-Automatic

Cylinder Arrangement:
Single Cylinder

Transmission System:
Chain Drive

Bore x Stroke (mm):
47 x 50

Piston Displacement:
(cc) 86 (90)

Compression Ratio:
9.2:1

Maximum Power:
(kw/r/min) 3.8(90)

Maximum Torque:
(N.m./rpm) 5.5(90)

Starter System:
Kick Starter

Lubrication:
Auto

Transmission:
4-Speed, Semi Automatic

Overall Size L x W x H:
1540 – 640 – 880

Wheel Base :
1055

Ground Clearance:
(mm) 185

Rider Capacity:
1 Person

Dry Weight:
(kg) 61

Tyre, Front:
2.50-14-4PR

Tyre, Rear:
3.00-12-4PR

Ignition:
C.D.I.

Fuel Tank Capacity:
(L) 4.9

Engine Oil Capacity:
(L) 0.85

Gas Consumption:
(L) 354g/kw.h

Front Suspension:
Telescopic Fork

Rear Suspension:
Monoshock Swing Arm

Max. Load Capacity:
(kg) 65

Seat height:
670mm

Height and weight are important factors here!!! and likewise, what type of dirt riding you are planning (play riding or trying to be competitive racer)…

but for a 5'4" on up tall beginner rider, a CRF or TTR230 is a very good starting point. these are torquey medium size 4 stroke engines, with a mixture of features yet a relatively medium price tag … these are not what I consider race bikes, due to only mid grade brakes, suspension, power and upgrades to soup them up, but make great trail bikes and are very beginner friendly.

I bought a CRF 230 for my daughter (21 y/o, 5'6" 130 lbs) that fits her great, has controlable power yet enough to get her out of trouble, sufficent suspension & brakes for anything she wants to try (for now). I use her bike to run fence lines and check cattle … I am 6'3" 270lbs, still fun for me or her …

the Suzuki DRZ line is also a good choice, as is the Honda XR, Kawasaki KLX, Yamaha WR and KTM EXC, but there is quite a price jump on these, but likewise, there is a substantial jump in higher end things like brakes, suspension, engine power, and aftermarket soup up parts available…

if you are wanting to get more into racing (MX, SX, ArenaCross or the more open offroad like harescrambles, cross country, desert, etc.), then I would suggest moving more into the lines of the high end 4 stroke race bikes like CRF250, KXF, RMZ, YZF, XC bikes, but again, the price will jump quite drastically on up as will the performance of the machines…

I personally, opt for the KTM brand (not cheap either buying or maintaining) for my race bikes due to their strong power, high performance features and lightweight design for the larger size engine to hall my mass…

hope that helps, but a little more info as stated would help us answer your question better.

good luck and have fun!!! make sure to buy proper protective gear before even starting the bike…

You can get it from the manufacturer or if it is a well known brand of race bike you can Try Pro Circuit or Total Control, but they won't have springs for a Chinese pit bike or anything like that.

http://www.procircuit.com/store/pc/viewCategories.asp?idCategory=91

http://www.totalcontrolsuspension.com/

Depends if you want fast or slow:

If you are looking for POWER and JUMPING, get a CRF150R or a KX100 (or YZ85 or CR85 for tight, small trails)
Pro's: They are the perfect size; not to small like the 85's, but not too big like the 125's. VERY light and quick
Cons: A bit rare, more noisy than trailbikes.

If you are looking to PUTT AROUND in local TRAILS with no intention of going fast or jumping (sort of boring if you ask me), get a TTR125L or a CRF150 trailbike.
Pro's: Quiet, more common, less gas consumption
Con's: Very Heavy, Sluggish, Poor suspension at best

Its up to you man, but I had both, and the trailbike is nowhere near as thrilling as the fast, light bike. Just don't let a sales person force you into buying a big bike you are not comfortable sitting on, or can't pick up when tipped over.

They are not better MX bikes. When is the last time KTM won an AMA title. KTM's are more expensive because they use some higher quality components like, better handlebars, tires, brakes, chains, sprockets, etc. KTM is the only one of the big 5 that uses a no-linkage rear suspension. This is a fairly big disadvantage in motocross/supercross. KTM suspension for MX/SX is harder to dial in, needs to be changed more often for varying track conditions and tends to be too "busy" in the rough stuff. It does however work well in the woods. KTM pretty much dominates woods racing because they spend tons of R&D time and money on developing the best woods bike in the world. KTM is known for having a very fast power plant, but it takes more than a fast engine to win at motocross.

Well I'm guessing part of it has to do with your suspension. Check to see that it's not to stiff for your weight, or actually check to see that your rebound is not set to be too fast, because when you are going up the face of they jump your suspension preloads, and when you launch off of the jump it releases, and if it is releasing too fast, it will throw your back end up, causing you to whip. (your rebound screw is on the bottom of your shock, turn it to the left a few clicks)

A CRF 230 should be able to handle these jumps at moderate speed. injuries are more likely to occur as a consequence to the wrong jumping technique than because of the suspension. land on the rear wheel and don't go to fast. if you don't hear the suspension bottoming out, you are ok. if it bottoms out, go for a real motorcross bike because that means you are either to fast or jumping to far for the CRF 230. Suspension mods will not make this bike lighter. so if you really want to do MX, get an MX bike.

In most states they require the following,
1) street legal tires.
2) a muffler along with the spark arrester.
3) DOT approved head light, tail light and horn.
4) a charging system and battery. (electrical system must work with the engine off)
5) Your local DOT will have forms to fill out to register it the first time as it was originally an off-highway vehicle.

There might be a few other items in your state but those are the 5 key items to do it. I did this several years ago with my motocross bike. Just a note you will want to change the rear sprocket, dirt bikes are geared low and will be reving high when going down the road.

Now for my MOTORcycle/ Bicycle rant. While you are doing this change over, buy a bicycle to ride while the dirt bike is being modified.