

Here's a Downloadable one,,,from Yamaha-Europe
(Same as USA,,'cept handle bars are on opposite side of the bike,,,LOL)
Category Model Year Language Download
Motorcycles TTR125 2007 English TT-R125 / TT-R125E / TT-R125LW / TT-R125LWE
That should be a direct link,,,if it dont work ,go here and enter your bike's info
http://www.yamaha-motor-europe.com/community/service/manuals.jsp
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Here's another Yamaha source,,,enter your bike's data–there's several Years TTR125 manuals.
The Large ones are Service Manuals.
The Small ones are Owners Manuals.
https://www.yamaha-motor.com.au/ssl/
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Save the PDF file on your computer,,,
Its lots easier than Downloading it everytime ya wanna look.
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From "The Book"
Oil type or grade:
Engine oil
(For USA and CDN)
At –10 °C (10 °F) or higher Å
Yamalube 4 (10W-30) or SAE 10W-30 type
SE motor oil
At 5 °C (40 °F) or higher ı
Yamalube 4 (20W-40) or SAE 20W-40 type
SE motor oil
(Except for USA and CDN)
API “SE” or higher grade
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If you change bikes every year or so,,,
and dont ride much or hard,,,then it really doesnt matter.
The Next owner will get to deal with the effects,,you wont have to.
Otherwise,,,You'd be WISE to use 20w-50 exclusively.




i will assume you are an adult >>(involved with Harleys)
anyway if you want a good muck around bike with power and speed check out these models: the ones in brackets r road registable
Honda (Xr 250) > Crf 250 these are four strokes
Yamaha Yz250f > (Wr 250) these are 4 strokes
Honda Cr 125 Yamaha Yz 125 Kawa Kx 125 Suzuki Rm 125
These are the 2 stroke range if your starting out theres more than enuf speed and power in these to keep you satisfied,
These are all potential bike you will want to move up from after a while so i suggest buy an old model, still reliable and thousands cheaper
Check these up on ebay so you know what they are > the most common reliable
gd luck


like a R6 or R6S

If you can practice discipline and restraint when riding, you may be fine. It's not all fun and games on a sport bike. Even if you ride perfect you need to know how to react when other cars and bikes and trucks don't drive so perfect. That comes from building new instincts and reflexes, and driving habits. While I definitely recommend the class, the class doesn't usually teach all you need to know. Many, many riders go down every summer due to overconfidence gained by taking the class.
The first time I ever touched a motorcycle, it was a 1997 ZX6. I rode it around a parking lot for 5 minutes to find out how to shift, then rode 100 miles home on the interstate. I’ve been riding ever since with a clean riding history. (Thanks to God) So it is possible to start on something other than a 250. Generally speaking, a 600 is a beginner’s sport bike. The internet is the only place I’ve heard of anybody starting on anything other beside people who grew up riding dirt bikes.
When I ride on the highway, I assume that every car I pass or that passes me, doesn't see me and is looking to come into my lane. I'm ready for any move that car makes half a second before he makes it.
You have to learn aerodynamics. If you get to close behind a rig, the wind can trap you there. When you pass along side of a rig the wind will pull you closer to the truck at one point and push you away at another. You have to learn all this and have counter balance and movements programmed into your body reflexes. There is so much more to it. You need lots of practice.
People recommend smaller CC bikes for beginners because most newbies are into it for the speed and flashiness of it and often underestimate the seriousness of riding safe. The temptation to tap into that power is usually too great to overcome. If you know you can and will respect the bike and get at least 3 thousand miles of practice before hitting the highway, and before group rides, then maybe you can start on a 600cc bike. Otherwise, help yourself out and start small.

http://www.ktmusa.com/Dealer-Locator.77.20.html
Now for what that bike will cost you can get a killer mountain bike.




