Dirt Bike FAQ

It needs to go through a DMV inspection and the inspector will tell you what needs to be done, if anything, before it can be used on the roads It usually does not take that long.

Axiom and Wellgo both offer good affordable pedals with replaceable studs.A cromoly axle is best.
The best pedal is one that has an owner with a good pedal nut tool.
I always rebuild my pedals with good bearing grease when new.Filling the bearings with grease will help keep dirt and water out of them.My favorite bicycle grease is Bullshot.[red]
The best bearing grease I have ever used came in a caulking tube and is used by long haul truckers to lubricate their trailer connector contacts where the trailer meets the tractor[truck].[it was red]

Had the same exact problem, i just sold mine in cali to someone without the title who had their own land and i bought a new one. besides it's a good excuse for a new one

What's the difference between a 2-stroke engine and a 4-stroke engine?
Gasoline and diesel engines are both available in either 2-stroke or 4-stroke versions

In a 4-stroke engine the sequence can be written:

Compression Stroke. The piston goes up and compresses a fuel/air mixture (in a gas engine) or just air (in a diesel).
Power Stroke. The fuel is ignited (by a spark in a gas engine, by being injected into high temperature air in a diesel.) The energy released drives the piston down. This provides the momentum necessary to keep the crankshaft turning and make the other three strokes happen.
Exhaust Stroke. The piston goes up and pushes the burned gases out the exhaust valve.
Intake Stroke. The piston goes down and draws in new air, or fuel/air mixture, ready for the next compression stroke.
In a 2-stroke engine, the last three strokes are combined into one.
Compression Stroke. The piston goes up and compresses a fuel/air mixture (in a gas engine) or just air (in a diesel.)
Power Stroke. The fuel is ignited and drives the piston down. As the piston goes down it not only turns the crankshaft but also pressurizes the fuel/air mixture in the crankcase which is about to be admitted to the piston for the next cycle. Near the bottom of the stroke, an outlet opens and the exhaust gases are released. Even nearer the bottom of the stroke, an inlet opens and new fuel/air (which was just pressurized by the piston) rushes in ready for compression.
Because a 2-stroke engine gets a power stroke twice as often as a four-stroke engine, it puts out about twice as much power (and makes twice as much noise) as a four-stroke engine of the same size.

The downside is that, because the 2-stroke engine is sloppier about how it expels exhaust and takes in fuel, doing them almost at the same time, it is more polluting. Also, the 2-stroke engine lets fuel into the crankcase, where the piston can pressurize it prior to intake. In order to keep the crankcase lubricated, you have to add expensive lubricants to the fuel, and even so, 2-stroke engines don't last very long.

So 2-stroke engines are used in chainsaws and lawnmowers, where power/weight is important, but the engine isn't used for long periods so pollution and engine life are less of a concern. The continuously used engines in cars and trucks are 4-stroke engines.

Clean the plug and try again with the kick if the battery is dead,
if that works - you need to do some carb tuning, if not it
could be a wiring problem - make sure you are getting good spark to the plug

Hi Sk8,,,
I'm going to make a guess and assume it's a Chinese Clone of a little Honda engine.

Normally,,all those type motors are very easy to start if the engine is in Good Condition,,,or even fair condition.
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Some things that can make them hard to start.

*Low Compression.
That can be caused by several things.
You Really need to have the compression checked with a gauge to determine if it's within proper range.
Should be about 120 psi minimum.

If it's Less than that,nothing will really help much.

"Low Compression" is usually thought to mean "burned-up / wore out Engine",,,,and that's often true.
But not Necessarily.

Valve Clearance Adjustment,,and Timing Chain condition will affect it also and make the compression a bit lower.

>>>Adjust the Valves to .003"
That's Looser than recommended setting of .002".

>>>Make sure the cam chain is adjusted right.
Sometimes the adjuster "sticks" and doesnt really work right.
Also need to check the chain for wear.
Both things are easy to do.

CARBURETOR:
These things are so small even the Tiniest amount of gum/varnish/deposits will make them behave badly.
Easiest thing to do is try some Cleaner added to the Fuel tank.
Use FUEL INJECTION cleaner,,,not "carb cleaner"—it works much better.
Chevron Techron ,,or Seafoam are 2 good ones.
Don't Overdose it thinking that "more is Better".

You may ultimately have to remove the carb and take it apart to clean it.

The Intake Manifold "never" gets loose on original,genuine Hondas.
On all the Clones,,,,it's a crapshoot.
If they Do get loose the Gaskets will leak air,,and cause hard start,bad running.
Or,,if Carb has ever been removed ,,,it's tuff to get them to re-seal without using new gaskets.

Ignition System/Spark Plugs:
Most of the late model versions all have electronic ignitions.
They usually work OK,,,and are Usually NOT adjustable.
When they FAIL,,,almost always it fails like a Light Bulb.
They just Quit Working at all,,,,no mysterious misfires,,no intermittent problems that come & go.

So IF it sparks,,and eventually Runs,,,
there's 99% Odds the CDI Ignition is working OK.

Spark Plugs.
Try an NGK Iridium Plug.
DO NOT expect it to "FIX" anything,,or even Cover-Up any sort of problems elsewhere.
Make sure everything Else is in good order First.

They are NOT Magic Plugs,,,but they DO improve starting because they can fire under a much wider range of conditions,,including Weak Ignition system,,,or partially flooded,,,very cold temps,,,etc,etc

They're expensive ,$8~10.
It Wont FIX anything,,but they can definitely help

Get a Service Manual if you can.

If You cannot find one,,,early Honda 50 & 70 Manual is Close enough to give You general basics

…………………………………………………………..
You will have to register,,but You can get Free Manuals here
http://www.repairmanualclub.com/

These will help.
Remeber,,these are NOT Identical to Yours,,not even the same engines,,70's and 90's are Different.
But they can give you an idea how the things are laid out,,,and valve adjustment,timing chain stuff is basically the same.
Carb Clean/Rebuild PROCEDURE is sorta generic,,,things like that.

Consider them only HINT,CLUE,or GUIDE,,,,and NOT actual,accurate service manuals for Your bike

Honda S90-CL90-C90-CD90-CT90 Shop Manual

Honda SL70, XL70K1 Factory Shop Manual, English

Good Luck with it

Dude, it could be 200, it could be 2000….

go to your local craigslist and find one.

craigslist.com go there, then find your city, or the nearest big city…. then go to motorcycles near the middle-bottom of the page.

There are simple hour meters that can be installed on dirt bikes by merely wrapping a wire around the spark plug wire that tracks the firing of the spark. I install these types of meters on all my bikes before they leave the shop (when purchased new) or installed upon picking up (when I buy used).

these usually record to the tenth hour and are relatively inexpensive.

http://www.cyclegear.com/spgm.cfm?L1=&L2=&L3=&L4=&item=TUC_21-1903&tier2=3039

Pretty soon you'll go online to www.alaskatrader.net. Check it out. Otherwise look at www.alaskayellowpages.com.

"craigslist" BOOOO!!!!!!

Yeah, the XR was really just a flat tracker.

It was never a dirt or a street bike.

Why the great E.K ever used this bike is a unknown.

The U.S of A dream I guess.