Dirt Bike FAQ

Go in to your local motorcycle shop and ASK a salesman. They deal with these every day. They can recommend something and you can see it for real in front of you. Take the boy with you. You do not have to buy anything! Then you can look in the want ads or place ads for a used one. I have many years of riding and have owned about 10 different bikes. I started on a suzuki 90. It was street legal. I bought a yamaha 90 enduro for my nieces and nephew. I took them out in the country and put the bike up on and old plastic milk carton making sure the wheels didn't touch it. This way after lots of DRY runs, I could start the bike up and then they could get the feel of shifting. When I was convinced they knew how to shift and could manage the brake ( me saying STOP at any given time while they were practicing with it running) then I could turn them loose in an open field. All of them did excellent with proper training. I would say start him on something like an 80 or a 90.

Good Luck!!!!!

If you have the height and strength, try this.
–Stand on the left side of the bike.
–Bucket on the floor on the left side of the bike, right in front of your feet.
–Left hand on the left hand grip.
–Right arm over the seat.
–Right hand under the rear of the seat.
–Lift up the rear of the bike.
–Use your body as a brace as you're lifting the rear up.
–If you have the strength, pull the rear of the bike towards you and place on Bucket.
–If the bike's a little heavy to move while the rear wheel is up, push the bucket under the bike with your foot.

Www.motosport.com
Great prices, free shipping over 100.00
no tax outside oregon.

also ebay if you want used

Depends on what you plan on doing- atv/dirtbikes are better for trail riding thru woods – atvs can haul more then dirtbikes. Go karts are more for level ground, some slight hills. Ive seen peeple modify lawntractors to go trail riding/racing – the trail riders use atv type wheels .

A bike doesn't need to have a 100% Chromo frame and saying it'll break because of this isn't true. When a bike is said to have a 4130 Chromo main frame they are referring to the two main (long) tubes – the top tube & down tube and the seat tube (which is the one the saddle & post are clamped into). You'll normally find the other tubes will be made from high tensile steel and this being the case it should be plenty strong enough as long as the welding is up to the job.

You'll find at this price that the components will be the bits you'll have issues with. Cheaper 3 piece cranks tend to be amongst the first parts to go. You'll often find the splines (the small grooves that hold the crank arm in place on the bottom bracket axle) will strip meaning you'll have to replace them pretty quickly. And no, before anyone pipes up – it won't be covered by warranty if you've been using the bike for jumping / park riding. Even though the bike is designed for this, it'll be excluded from the warranty cover.

Another thing you may need to think about changing pretty quickly would be the wheels. Off the peg wheels tend to be pretty poorly built. Look for something with steel rims (heavier but stronger and better braking), 48 spoke and with a serviceable hub. No point going for cartridge bearings when the wheels are going to take a kicking. And they will. especially if you're learning to jump!

Take a look at the Specialized Fuse Two & Three. Both have good frames and a good level of equipment. The Fuse Three at $400 has a full Chromo frame and slightly lighter wheels. Otherwise have a look for the GT Bump at around $300. All good places to start.

Whatever you get, don't expect it to be unbreakable. Even the really expensive ones get busted, especially if you're just getting started. Remember to save some money for pads & a helmet. And have fun!

While 20" is responsive, 24" wheels roll much better on rough terrain. The rule is the larger the wheel the easier it is to ride over rough stuff especially.

First thing I'd do is a full cleaning, almost taking the bike apart. Its easier to work on something when it's clean. Buy a silencer plug (Pro Grip makes a good one) before washing, keeps water out of the silencer. Before you go out riding, Air pressure (14 lbs) in the tires is good and check the air filter if its dirty (if you see dirt… its dirty). Also Lube the chain w/ a chain lube, NOT WD40 (explanation later) After ride is more important. Clean it again, after washing bike spray the engine, pipe, radiators, plastic, under the fenders, wheels, linkage, swingarm and chain with WD40 (the WD stands for Water Dispersal) then towel off the plastic as best as you can letting the mechanicals dry. After everything is dry, lube the chain (links, not rollers) then spray the engine again w/ WD40 and the plastic and tires and wheels w/ Armorall then wipe it down (it not only makes it look good, but dirt, mud and water come off easier the next time you clean). There should be grease zerks on the KDX so you should probably grease them every other ride or right after you get back from a really muddy/watery ride to blow out any water. Clean air filter every 2 to 3 rides. I would go to your local Kawasaki shop and get a Clymer repair manual for your bike.

http://www.frpoffroad.com/ is probably the best site for KDX products, Jeff Fredette has be racing KDX's for 20+ yrs and should have the parts you would ever want for it.

PS: Never WD40 or Armorall the brakes or seat… you won't like the results

I am sorry to tell you, but, I seriously doubt that you'll will be able to find a dirt bike for less than $500 anywhere. Well, I take that back, you did not specify running, or even with engine, or seat & tank, or wheels. Your best bet would be to do what I did when I was a kid (before dirt bikes were invented, well almost) find an old street bike that still runs strip it down and field beat it,(brings back great memories).

I got my first dirt bike when i was 5 and it was the best day of my life

I think that the L is for larger wheels.

You can confirm that here

http://www.suzukimotorcycles.com.au/modeldetail.php?intBikeID=227